When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.
This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.
“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.
A seasoned sports analyst and casino reviewer with over a decade of experience in the Canadian gambling industry.